FIFINONO – a blog about cultural exploration

Ethiopia is one of the world’s oldest countries, the second-most populous nation in Africa after Nigeria, and the fastest growing economy in the region. However, it is also one of the poorest, with a per capita income of $850. The history, landscapes, and culture are fascinating. Its uncolonized history made the place so unique, authentic, and different from many African countries. But seeing the poverty and struggles here was distressing.  This is the cradle of humanity, where the hominids first stood up; the home to one of the oldest religious communities: Christianity, Jewish, Muslims, the legend of Queen of Sheba, and much more. when the Europeans were just running naked Barbarians, the Ethiopians were already sophisticated and cultured. But now, the country is still suffering from the aftermath of years of war,  famine, and suppression. There’s something tragic about the beauty here. 

Erta Ale Volcano

The road in Afar Region reminded me of death. A land so barren where nothing grows. Kids running barefoot after the jeeps under the 50-degree heat, hoping to get some money or candies from the tourists. Grass built huts scattered messily around the dessert. Occasional a few tornados chased the jeeps until they were captured,  devoured, and disappeared from our vision. 

The thermometer is above 50 degrees now, I felt waves of heat rushing in my face when I opened the car.  The sun violently shown down from a cloudless sky, the ground was baked, there was not a breath of wind, everything seemed to slow down. We walked for about 20 minutes until we reached Sulfur lake. It is dangerously stunning and seductive, vibrant cyan pools hide poisonous waters, rotten egg smell filled the heated air. If I had stayed longer, I could easily melt into its beauty.

Leaving the Sulfur lake, we arrived at the Erta Ale basecamp around 4 pm, hiding under a grass built hut waiting for the blazing sun to set. About three hours later, the weather started to get a bit more bearable, we slowly walked up in the dried lava fields. drinking water at almost every step. Soon, we could spot a touch of red glowing up ahead, radiating the remaining heat of the day. The hike was quite easy, as we got closer, we could feel the punishing heat again. We climbed down the cliffs, and through smoke, the crater revealed itself. The lava danced in its spluttering molten lakes, jumping up and falling back down into the pool.

“So this is what Hell looks like?” I marveled at the volcano and asked our guide.

“The local people think this is evil spirits.”

I could see why.

We spent the night under the open air under the star, with the wind keeping us cool. Exhausted from the heat, I fell asleep, still amazed I was standing right at the crater of an active volcano.

Abune Yemanta Church

Religion plays a big part in Orthodox Ethiopians life. Abuna Yemata Guh is definitely one of their most faithful devotions. Hanging on the clifftop, the rock church requires visitors to free climb barefoot. It started to rain as we get there, making the climb more challenging.

“Right hand, left foot, yes…” The local guide gave us instructions as we walk up, similar to rock climbing without ropes or harnesses. I inched my way slowly up, feeling the rain pouring down on every part of my body.

“I was baptized here.” Said our guide as he showed a picture of his mother carrying a baby on her back, quite a daring endeavor. Perhaps religion gives them something to cling on to, to go through the wars, famine and struggles.

The Tribes

There’s something uneasy about visiting the tribes. Tourists in jeeps trespassing their homes, taking pictures of them like zoo animals, and throw Birrs at them afterward. Some of them happily accepted the money and begged for more, others ran away or yelled angrily to the lenses. As much as I tried to respect and understand their culture and customs, it made me uncomfortable. The Hamer women get beat up by their male peers during the boy coming of age ceremony. The Mursi women have their lower lips cut and insert a clay plate in between. When they took the lip plate off, the distorted lip and the hollow gave me chills. Yet the tourists take this as pleasure.

Far away I found a young Mursi girl. She did now cut her lips like the others, just elegantly stood there. Our guide said that without the lip plate, you are considered unattractive and can’t find a husband, but she is so beautiful that I couldn’t take my eyes off her. If only she was living in a different world.

Standing at the local market, I felt someone trying to take my hand, I look down and found a little boy standing there timidly. I smiled at him to assure him that’s okay. He then grabbed my hand and leaned his head towards my arm. As we were leaving, our guide said something to the boy, he let my hand go but followed me to the jeep. He never asked for anything, but I wish I could speak his language, and ask how I could help. But I left with only his image stuck in my head.

The Orphanage

“Fiona!” “Fiona!”

As I walked into the orphanage, the kids running towards me yelling my name. One of them took my hand and led me to the clinic, where he proudly pointed a pair of shoes on the floor.

“New shoes!” He said with a big grin.

They were definitely not new, but I had never seen a bigger smile brought by shoes, even though I worked with luxury shoe brands that promised to bring women happiness and confidence. 

“Do the kids know they are sick?” I asked.

“No, we don’t separate anyone,” He said nonchalantly. “the HIV infected kids will get special meal and medication, but other than that, everyone is the same.”

I remember a Podcast on StoryCorp, where an HIV infected kid was placed in a regular class. When someone asked who has HIV, all the healthy kids said they did. The story brought tears to my eyes. But what would happen to those kids in the future? When they find out what HIV is and how it would impact their lives; when they are discriminated against, alienated, and looked down upon by society? I couldn’t bear to think about it.

“Thank you, Fiona!” “Are you coming back, Fiona?” “You come back tomorrow Fiona?”

As I left the orphanage with a heavy heart, the voices of the kids lingered in my head. History has brought Ethiopia a unique charm, as well as a heavy burden. But I am hopeful in her resilience and hopeful to see her thrive again.