FIFINONO – a blog about cultural exploration

Jordan is the safest kingdom in a dangerous neighborhood. It is an Arab safe haven in the middle of the Middle Eastern storm. Border to Iraq and Syria and home to millions of refugees from Palestine, Iraq, and Syria. This is a small country with a big heart and endless wonders.

Petra

To keep some mysteries, I decided to go to Petra by night first. Following the candles along the rocky road, I entered the ancient city of Petra under the twinkling stars, passing by the silhouette of giant rocks under the moonlight. Strolling down the narrow Siq, the magnificent Treasury suddenly revealed itself, light up by thousands of candles. We sat quietly in front of this ancient masterpiece, listening to traditional instruments and stories from the Bedouins and time-traveled to the ancient Nabateans Kingdom. 

Under the bright sunlight, the mystery of Petra was unveiled and her grandeur magnified.

This archaeological site dates back to around 300 B.C., it was the capital of the Nabatean Kingdom.  Situated between the Red Sea and the Dead Sea, Petro was an important crossroads between Arabia, Egypt and Syria-Phoenicia. It’s alwasy facinating to see the gradeur of old kingdoms, reminding us the constant change. There was endless sophisticate architecture chiseled out of the rosy cliffs. This wonderland remained undiscovered until 1812, then was featured in many films such as Indiana Jones and the Last Crusade. I had my own little adventure in Petra: A local policeman followed me all the way to the Monastery and back for four hours. After a few attempts, I finally managed to escape. Seems like I’ve gained my first stalker in Jordan.

Wadi Rum

We were driving into the Valley of the Moon, the name couldn’t be more fitting here. Our jeep passed numerous towering cliffs, narrow gorges, enormous landslides, and caverns in all wild shapes. I climbed onto chiseled rocks, searched for marks by TE Lawrence, and stopped on a cliff to wait for sunset. There was no one visible on the vast lunarscapes. Occasionally a few jeeps would cross the desert and disappear into the horizon, leaving a long scar on the sand. The sense of isolation felt intense.The sun disappeared, leaving the rocks with layers of pink orange, and red. How lucky am I to witness sunsets from the Himalayas, to the Indian ocean then to the desert in the past month. 

After dinner at the campsite, I climbed the sand dunes barefoot and stared at the thousands of stars. BJ Miller said that the cosmos will put all the neurotic anxieties in their proper place. Stargazing is therapy.I sipped some local wine from a paper cup, feeling like a proud and free Bedouin.

Dead Sea

Dead Sea’s surface and shores are 430.5 metres (1,412 ft) below sea level, making it earth’s lowest elevation on landis. It is also one of the world’s saltiest bodies of water – 9.6 times as salty as the ocean – and has a density of 1.24 kg/litre, which makes swimming similar to floating

Out of curiosity, I licked my finger as I entered the Dead Sea and immediately regretted it. The saltiness and bitterness were so intense my tongue was almost burning. I lied down on my back, experiencing the strange sensation as if the water was trying to pushing me out. I floated like a piece of wood, unable to swim and clumsily circling my arms to change directions. Then I covered my body with the famous dead sea mud, turning myself into a living statue.

On the way back, I noticed a few marks of Dead Sea levels in the past years. It’s shrinking at an alarming rate, almost a meter each year. The recession of the Dead Sea has begun causing problems, and multiple canal and pipeline proposals have been made to reduce its recession. The Dead Sea is dying. I hope it can be reverted, otherwise it may disappear in about 50 years.

Jerash

Jerash is considered one of the largest and most well-preserved sites of Roman architecture in the world outside Italy. which earned it the nickname of “Pompeii of the East”.

During Ramadan, the city felt like a ghost town during the day. The emptiness intensified the grandiosity of the ruins. I stood alone in the Roman amphitheaters and stared at the Cardo, imagining the glory and prosperity of this ancient kingdom. Empires rises and fall, countries prosper and collapse. Centuries later, what would our ancestors judge our current conflicts and wars? Will the mid-east finally find peace?

Amman

On my last night in Jordan, I sat on the hotel rooftop overlooking the Roman amphitheaters and drank a few Petra beer with the locals. I had been surrounded by their warm hospitality since day one. We talked about religion, politics, the war, and of course Syria. 

Almost everyone told me how beautiful Syria used to be, with a somber tone and melancholy eyes. They’ve visited there, know people there, some had close friends and romantic partners, and the war destoyed it all. 

The next morning I wake up to the news of the London attack. As rage and sadness gripped my heart. It’s a very complicated and controversial issue, and while no one has figured it out,  I felt that the Muslim community has become the double victim: ISIS is ruining many of their lives while turning the world against them. We need to stop Islamophobia. On my way to Queen Alia Airport, the joyful sound of oud lingered in my head. I wish everyone could come here and experience this incredible land themselves. So we could replace fear, hatred, and gunfires with smiles, songs, and heartfelt conversations.