FIFINONO – a blog about cultural exploration

“Africa changes you forever, like nowhere on earth. Once you have been there, you will never be the same. But how do you begin to describe its magic to someone who has never felt it?”

— Brian Jackman

This was my first trip to Kenya, with too short of an itinerary and very limited knowledge of Africa. But I was amazed, curious, and never thought I would form such a long-term bonding with Kenya and keep coming back here. Perhaps she did cast a magical spell.

Nairobi

My first stop was Nairobi for a long-overdue visit. The global trotting life involves a lot of goodbyes, but meeting old friends in new places brings me the greatest joy, and adds more charms to the destination. The city of Nairobi felt industrial and congested, with constructions in progress, dust in the air. Like many developing cities, she is hungry for development and expansion, yet the 117 square kilometers national park in the middle of the city sets it apart from the rest of the capitals in the world. A weekend is far from enough to understand Nairobi, but after museum visits, safari walks, and vibrant nightlife, it was enough for me to fall in love with the hospitality and energy. The city is full of life, the smiles of people are contagious, the upbeat, proud, and welcoming Kenyans made me feel everything was possible here. 

The Masais

Leaving Nairobi, I started my Overland Safari with Africa Travel Co (ATC). As our truck drove in the vast land heading to Masai Mara, the Masai in red blankets struck out from afar. They are the real Nomads, roaming in the vast land and flirting with the unpredictable danger in the wild. The sky is their roof; they are unrestrained, limitless, and completely free. I wondered where they were going, where they would be sleeping at night, and what adventures they would encounter. I almost envied that freedom and possibility, also knowing that I wouldn’t survive a day.

Masai Mara

We arrived at our campsite just before sunset. After setting up the tent, we watched the sun turning the sky crimson and the night covering our campsite with a starry blanket. The fire was lit and the group started self-introduction. We had a lucky number of nine, ranging from Kiwis, Aussies, and South Africans. I sensed a warm vibe from everyone, like the campfire dancing under the stars.

The next morning, after an early breakfast in the darkness, we jumped into our jeeps to start the 1st game drive. The emptiness of the land was almost overwhelming, there were no clear paths, no ends as if we could just keep going beyond the horizon. The darkness faded and our jeeps paused as the dawn broke. The sun gradually appeared from the horizon, turning the sky orange, covering the land with warmth, waking up the wildlife, and leaving us in awe.

We started to spot animals in the least expected times. Lions and Lioness yawning under the trees, leopards sprinting across the land, giraffes walk elegantly in slow motion, elephants roaming into the horizon, hundreds of wildebeests followed by the zebras marching forwards… The animals were unbothered by the jeeps and cameras as if knowing that they were the true masters of this land, and we were completely under their mercy.

Our driver was a Masai with an English name James. He passionately told us trivia about different pieces.

“Do you know that giraffes are gay?”

No wonder they are so elegant.

“James, have you had any dangerous encounters with the animals?”

“Oh I can’t tell you. You will be scared.”

“Please!” We begged. “Try us.”

“Okay…” He hesitated… “When I was a kid, we had to walk 9km to school… One day there were three of us walking together. Suddenly a cheetah jumped out and took my friend.”

“Oh…” I didn’t see that one coming.

Then James showed us a clear craw scar on his leg, proof of a solo-battle with a lion as if he was telling a story of someone else. I wonder if this is just so common with Masai life. 

Soon after the story, James took us next to a lioness. We were so close that I could spot every fly on her face.

“You are not afraid of the lions after what happened?” I asked

“I know how to deal with them,” James said with a proud smile.

Perhaps he does, perhaps we should all learn that. Animals have their own system, the cycle of life. We broke it and portrait them to be the beasts and enemies.

After lunch next to the hippos-filled Masai river, we continued our drive. One of the jeeps broke down and got stuck in a muddy ditch. We went back,  trying to push and pull with the other jeep but ended up getting stuck ourselves. I realized that the break-in of our jeep never worked. We finally managed to get the car out of the dip with the help of some other tourists and restarted the engine.

“I drive everywhere without a break, don’t worry.” Here comes Jame’s proud smile, and I don’t know if I should be assured by that. 

I wasn’t bothered by the incident or the condition of our jeep. On the contrary, I began to enjoy the chaos and toughness. The structured life was too predictable,  but this, this felt fresh, original, and exciting. 

Lake Nakuru

Following the boisterous baboons, we entered the dreamy woods of Lake Nakuru National Park. Nowhere in the world had I seen this kind of vegetation. Tangled branches reached into the crystal blue sky, leaving reflection on the tranquil lake. Antelopes elegantly roam on the grass, battling each other with their horns. Flocks of flamingos decorated the lake with a touch of pink. As everyone looked out for rhinos,  I couldn’t stop picturing turning into a flamingo myself and fly across the lake into the end of the world.

EAMO Orphanage

We camped at Ziwa lodge next to the EAMO Orphanage. The owner of both is Rolf – an Aussie who moved to Kenya twenty years ago to start this orphanage. Now there were over 170 children here.

Our guide Walter walked us from the lodge to the orphanage. He grew up here and now works at the lodge. 

“We call him(Rolf) father,” Walter said proudly as he showed us around.

Walter then complained about government restrict. “They now say the kids can only stay for three years. Where are we supposed to send them? What are they supposed to do?”

Foreign aids have been a complicated and controversial issue in Africa.  Many argued that most of the Western organizations didn’t improve the situation in Africa, offering help without the understanding of the local situation, and making the government event more corrupted and greedy for more donations. But here, many kids lives are saved and changed for the better.

The kids welcomed us excitedly, we played with the little ones and ate with the older kids. They shared their ambitious goals, favorite music (Apparently Beyonce and Shakira are popular here), and couldn’t stop playing with my hair.

“Do you have pictures of your family?” A boy named Geni asked.

I hesitated for a second, wondering whether a picture of my loving family would remind them what they lack. But I decided to show it to them, they certainly didn’t lack love here. After some songs and prayers, it was time to leave. We were surrounded by the kids, holding my hands, calling my name, and asking me to come back. Perhaps I should. Maybe I will. 

We sat by the bar and listened to Rolf’s incredible stories, from one street kid to this established organization. As Rolf talked about the past 20 years in a typical Aussie nonchalant tone, I couldn’t help but think about the lives he impacted and the people he inspired. I wish one day I could do the same.

Kericho

Kericho is located in the highlands west of the Kenyan Rift Valley. Standing on the edge of the Mau Forest, Kericho has a warm and temperate climate making it an ideal location for agriculture and in particular, the large scale cultivation of tea. I walked through Kericho’s picturesque tea plantations, smelling the refreshing leaves and learning how to be a proper tea picker.

As I was leaving for the airport, I my love affair with Kenya was just beginning.