FIFINONO – a blog about cultural exploration

A first glimpse at the map, Sir Lanka looks like an opal in the Indian Ocean. But after I read her past, she also seems like a teardrop. The abundant natural resources became a target of western invasion; the ethnic diversity triggered one brutal war after another, and the endless scenic coastline made her vulnerable to natural disasters. Her gifts brought her so much misfortune.

Initially, Sir Lanka wasn’t part of my plan. I met some travelers in Bhutan who invited me to join their trip there, and I thought why not. The feeling of saying yes to unexpected adventure is incredible. It’s the freedom I lost or gave up for years.

Hello Colombo

When I came out of the airport in Colombo, I was welcomed by the warm and moist air. The lush tropical vegetation reminded me that I had left the mountains and stepped on an island. I was eager to see the sea.

I decided to reward myself with a treat and checkin into Kingsbury, expecting the well-known stunning ocean-view out of my window. But it’s not there anymore. Instead, I saw a construction site of an artificial island, a massive project invested by China. I wasn’t sure if I was proud of my country’s increasing global impact, or sorry that Sir Lanka is about to go under another kind of dependence.

The Legend of Sigiriya

Leaving Colombo we headed to Sir Lanka’s most famous attraction Sigiriya or the Lion’s Rock- a place and fortress on top of a gigantic rock built around 1500 year’s ago. The massive column of rock is nearly 200 meters high! According to the ancient Sri Lankan chronicle the Culavamsa, this site was selected by King Kashyapa for his new capital. He built his palace on the top of this rock and decorated its sides with colorful frescoes. On a small plateau about halfway up the side of this rock, he built a gateway in the form of an enormous lion. The name of this place is derived from this structure — Sīnhāgiri, the Lion Rock

Staring at the bottom of the rock, I was again humbled by the imagination and wisdom of our ancient civilization. On the steep walk up, we saw the frescoes of topless ladies and the Mirror Wall where the king could see his reflection, passed the gateway with rocks resembling an enormous paw of the lion, and finally reached the  ancient kingdom. I wandered in the ruins, imagining the short-lived prosperity and glory thousands of years ago.

The Picturesque Kandy

The city of Kandy sits on a plateau surrounded by mountains, which are home to tea plantations and biodiverse rainforest. The city’s heart is scenic Kandy Lake (Bogambara Lake), and famous for sacred Buddhist sites.

I walked along the 60-hectare Botanic Garden and passed an extraordinary collection of plants I couldn’t name. There were hundreds of bats flapping their wings up in the tree in the bright sunshine, I stared at them for too long until my eyes and neck hurt.

Nature is always performing wonders, it’s up to us if we want to slow down and experience them.

“Hello there.” I squatted down and carefully touched  the mimosa, she immediately closed the leaves and bent down her head. “It’s okay, I am not going to hurt you.”

The city is also the center of cultural and religion. Sri Dalada Maligawa – or Temple of the Tooth holds significant meaning for Buddhism, as it hosts the relic of Buddha’s tooth. Hundreds of devoted locals held flowers and waited in line with for the daily ritual – Tevava.  The entire temple is filled with sweet aroma,  exotic music and prayers.

The European Flair in Galle

Located on the southwest coast of Sri Lanka. Galle is known for the Fort, the fortified old city founded by Portuguese colonists in the 16th century. Stone sea walls, expanded by the Dutch, encircle car-free streets with architecture reflecting Portuguese, Dutch and British rule.

On my way to Galle, I imagined with excitement the feeling of stepping on hot sands and swimming through the blue waves. As we were getting closer, I started to hear the calming sound and smell the saltiness of the ocean. It’s incredible to see the landscape change so much just after a few hours drive.

When I first saw Galle Fort, for a second I felt I was in Europe.  The architectures are charming and romantic, but they are also a clear reminder of colonization.

I sat on the edge of the fort waiting for the sunset and time slowed down.

The next day I walked around in town,  a picture of a stunning beach front apartment caught my eye. I stopped at the window to stare stare at it when a stylishly-dressed women invited me in. Her name is Sabine. It turned out that she recently sold her luxury designer boutique in Berlin and moved to Sri Lanka.

“People asked me whether I miss my shop. I felt after 30 years the weight on my shoulder is finally gone! I love it here!” The excitement from liberation shone through her eyes.

The more I travel, the more I realized that I am not alone. My confusion, dilemma, and the feeling of being trapped and lost aren’t unique at all. And maybe it’s okay if I don’t figure it all out, maybe the process of figuring matters more.

“Thanks Sabine, maybe someday we will be neighbors.” I said goodbye and walked towards the beach.

On my drive back to Colombo I saw a rainbow. Just like Sir Lanka, storms after storms, she still shines strength. This country was granted gifts and treasure, but she has been through too much misfortune. Here I have witnessed resilience, optimism and hope for the future.

Perhaps this island is a teardrop made of Opal. So colorful and unbreakable, no matter what struggles she has been through.